Santiago de Queretaro
When most people think of Mexico, the image that comes to mind is either tropical, sandy beaches or shanty town-esque villages and donkeys. They probably also imagine the stereotypical Mexican – a person who is a mix of indigenous and Spanish. While both exist in Mexico, they don’t encapsulate all that this country is.
For example, most people are unaware that parts of Mexico were (unsuccessfully) annexed as French colonies. Other parts are Meccas to waves of Italian immigrants and there is even a sizable Asian immigrant population (a former Governor of the state of Hidalgo was Miguel Ángel Osorio Chong afterall). The capital of the state of Queretaro, Santiago de Queretaro, is one of those uniquely Mexican cosmopolitan cities that is at the same time both modern and colonial.
Considered one of the cradles of Mexican independence, Santiago de Queretaro (or Queretaro for short) was home to secret cabals of insurrectionists plotting to overthrow the Spanish monarchy. On September 13, 1810 the mayor of Queretaro Miguel Domínguez and his wife (Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez) were arrested for their roles in the preparation of a rebellion against Spain. They managed to warn Miguel Hidalgo who fled to Dolores where he gave his now infamous cry for independence that rallied the rebel colonists to pick up arms. “El gritto,” as it is called, is repeated every year on Mexico’s independence day at celebrations around the country).
The city of Queretaro is also home to such notable historical events as the signing of the Treaty of Guadalupe, which ended the Mexican-American War and ceded almost half of Mexico’s territory to the U.S. (in what is now California, Nevada, Utah, New Mexico, most of Arizona and Colorado, and parts of Oklahoma, Kansas, and Wyoming). It was also the location of the signing of Treaty of Mesilla in 1854 that led to the Gadsden Purchase in which the remainder of Arizona and New Mexico were purchased to allow for the construction of a transcontinental railroad by Southern Pacific. In 1916, the city was home to the Constitutional Congress that rewrote the nation’s constitution into the document that is the law of the land today.
Queretaro doesn’t just have ties to old-world Spain. From 1864-1867 a former Austrian Archduke with support of the French Emperor Napoleon III ruled as Emperor of Mexico until he was executed by firing squad on a hill (Cerro de las Campanas) just outside the city of Queretaro. After liberal President Benito Juarez refused to pay his country’s debts to France, the French seized the opportunity to establish a Second Mexican Empire under Maximillian’s supervision. Maximilian’s liberal policies, however, quickly frustrated the conservatives in Mexico who facilitated this takeover in an attempt to regain some control over the country after a three-year civil war between Mexico’s liberal and conservative factions. The U.S. never recognized the legitimacy of Maximillian but could not intervene due to our own Civil War but once that ended, material support flowed to Mexico causing the French to back off their support of Maximillian.
In 1867, the Imperialists retreated to the center of Mexico and ultimately to the gates of the city of Queretaro where they laid siege on the city. Despite winning a few battles, the war was lost when the city gates were opened and the Mexicans overwhelmed the Imperialist, capturing Maximilian and his generals. They were tried, found guilty, and executed in this culturally significant city.
Today, Queretaro is a UNESCO World Heritage Listed city, in recognition of its historical significance, but the city of nearly 2 million people is also a major hub in Mexico for technology, higher education, aerospace manufacturing, and plays Latin-America-home to many multinational companies. Its booming economy gives Queretaro a diversity unlike most places in Mexico as it attracts immigrants who bring their cuisine and customs to Mexico. The city easily warrants several days of exploration. It would be easy to spend most of that time wandering the cobblestone streets and exploring its many alleys lined with shops, restaurants, museums, and churches. However, you should also make a point to explore the surrounding area if you want to soak in all that this rich area has to offer.That said, if you want truly experience Queretaro, plan to come during one of its festivals when the very walkable city really comes alive.
Regional highlights include:
- Festival of Santiago de Queretaro – a week long festival of the arts
- Dia de los Muertos – three days of elaborate altars in public squares, street food, and live music
- Festival of Our Lady of Guadalupe – celebrated throughout Mexico in honor of the indigenous boy Juan Diego’s vision of the Virgin Mary on a hill in 1531. Festivities include live music, street vendors, parades, and (of course) more solemn reflections in the many churches throughout town but particularly in San Francisco.
- Aqueduct of Queretaro – 23 meters high and 1280 meters long with 74 arches built in the 18th century to bring water from a local canyon to the city
- Church of San Francisco – 18th century construction featuring elaborate art and architecture and now housing the Regional Museum, the city is home to many historical churches worth exploring
- Plaza de Independencia or Plaza de Armas – large public square lined with trees and shops
- Vineyards – the state is the 2nd largest wine producing region in Mexico behind Baja California.
- Sierra Gorda National Park – majestic, tree-covered mountains covered in mist characterize this beautiful park
- San Miguel Allende – home to one of the largest American ex-pat populations in Mexico, this UNESCO World Heritage colonial city is actually located in Guanajuato but it’s an easy day trip from Queretaro.
